Davy Crockett National Forest 4/2002

When: April 20-21, 2002

Crew: Me

Summary: I arrived at Ratcliff Lake about 1:15 in the afternoon, checked in at the ranger station, and paid a $3 parking fee. I parked at the trailhead for The 4 C National Recreation Trail; my plan was to hike 10 miles to Walnut Creek Campground, spend the night, and hike back to Ratcliff Lake. The entire trail is "six hundred yards short of twenty miles," according to the ranger at the gate, but since I didn't have anyone to pick me up at the other end, I had decided to hike halfway and come back.

I set a good pace, enjoying how green and lush the forest was. I was a little disappointed to find that the trail crossed a few roads along the way, since that diminishes the feeling that one is going somewhere remote. The trail was well marked, with white markers nailed to trees every few yards. There were wooden bridges across most creeks, though there was little water in them, if any. I passed two man-made ponds in the long stretch south of the Big Slough Wilderness. I found one creek that had a trickle of running water, and filled up the first bottle I had emptied.

The forest was alive with wildlife. I saw snakes, salamanders, frogs, a rabbit, a duck, and a roadrunner. After a few hours, I emerged from the forest on to a section of private land, just south of the Big Slough Wilderness. I crossed another road, passed by several deer stands overlooking likely hunting spots, and plunged into Texas' smallest Wilderness - the Big Slough.

The Big Slough Wilderness was a test of will. The thick brush and tall trees trapped the heat and blocked the wind, making the air hot and musty. The previously well-maintained trail was narrow and overgrown, with branches and brush arching over the trail at head level. Every other step stretched a spider web across my face, arms, or legs. The land around the trail was a mucky bog, with pools of standing water festering in the creek beds. The mosquitos came in swarms, making it impossible to stop for a moment without being eaten alive. I ended up barrelling down the trail, somewhere between a walk and a run, swinging my trekking poles in front of me like scissors to clear out spider webs.

I emerged from the Big Slough tired and weary, and continued on to Walnut Creek. Disappointment surged again as I crossed another road about half a mile from the campground, with two or three cars parked at the side of the trail. I arrived about 6:30, and set up my tent on one of the "tent pads" that was not in use by a Boy Scout troop that was also staying the night. I cooked up some Couscous Burritos of the Mighty San Gabriels (recipe in Lipsmackin' Backpackin' by Tim and Christine Conners) and purified some water from Walnut Creek. The mosquitos were fewer since I left the Big Slough, but still pestered me enough that I had to eat my burritos in the tent.

I slept peacefully under a gibbous moon, and awoke to the sound of the Boy Scouts packing up their camp. I ate a hasty breakfast, anxious to get on the trail and get the Big Slough behind me for the day. I sat down in one of the hunting spots on the other side and ate lunch, and headed back to Ratcliff Lake.

Other: Davy Crockett National Forest Waypoints